Friday, May 11, 2012

Onwards to the Dubrovnik republic

We left the city and Island of Korcula this morning on a very small boat, typical of the way the natives more around the island. Most of us were not sorry to see the end of the Marko Polo hotel stay. It is a large formerly socialist facility that that still 70 % government owned. Breakfast is copious but largely inedible.
After loading our luggage on the roof of the boat, which did seem a bit perilous, we set out for a smooth crossing and midway across met Cunard's Queen Elizabeth. While I know that today's cruise ships are huge, nothing reenforces that idea that passing in front of one in a tiny boat. The passengers on board waved to us and we waved back.
Landing on the other side we prepared for a five mile hike to Osviev but first received warnings about vipers on the trail. It made us want to stick together as we wet up the mountain to see churches, villages and cemeteries on a combination of dirt roads and single person track through grasses. The weather today is esceedingly hot so we stopped for multiple water breaks. The churches even in the small villages have beautiful marble altars and paintings, a indication of the faith of many in this country. We stopped for Lunch and found a restaurant serving pizza, we ordered three, all of which were good before stopping for gelato and boarding the bus.
We spent part of the afternoon at an oyster farm. It was interesting as we crossed a wooden dock and then literally a plank of wood to a floating workshop with cages for oysters near to being harvested and to process mussels as they are harvested. Still think they are a slimy food but enjoyed seeing them come frome the water and seeing boxes waiting to be harvested off the peninsula coastline.
Next stop was Ston known for it's salt production critical to Dubrovnick's economic wealth. Ston also has the longest defensive wall in Europe. I am pretty sure this is a Game of Thrones film site. Wall was spectacular and I would have liked more time to walk it.
Then we headed into Dubrovnik which may be the most magical city I have every visited. (Brugge comes close and like that northern city long past it's prime, stepping into it is like stepping back into time.) Hard to believe this was a war zone 20 years ago and even harder to believe that anyone would willingly harm this beautiful medieval site. Much more tomorrow.

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