Saturday, May 5, 2012
So much history
We all met this morning and headed off to Salona which is the site of the ruins of a Roman era amphitheater. The theater sat about 17,000 which leads the experts who know such things to believe there were about 65,000 inhabitants of the area. The ruins are now filled with wild flowers but you could make out arches and what were likely holding pens for animals as this Diocletion, of which I will write more later, was particularly fond of letting eat Christians. In the background of the amphitheater, you could see a concrete plant built under the communists. The juxtaposition between the ancient world and the modern one was eerie.
The next drive was to Trogir, a medieval town now preserved by Unesco. The patron saint of the town blesses you as you enter. The town is on an island and the cathedral bell tower took 400 years to build with each generation adding something to the style. The paths through the town are very narrow but we walked the town, saw the central court, a stage from which judgements were handed down, sometimes exile and sometimes needing to stand on the pillar of shame while you were pelted with rotten food. The cathedral doors were "held up" by stone effigies of Saracen pirates, with their turbans and dark hair visible, Adam and Eve stood on either side while the top was the Christmas story and the columns were symbols of the months.
We were also able to take photos in the cathedral - many churches in Croatia do not allow this so you can see the marble altars that are so common in Croatian churches.

The final part of the day was to Split where the preparations for the festival of St. Dominus continued. We saw a flower show in the basement of the palace, including one exhibit which combined bullets and flowers. Diocletion split the Roman empire into East and West and then retired to Split and built a huge palace. He also killed a lot of Christians. Most martyrs and saints from this part of the world were created during his reign.
Back in the cathedral we saw the tombs of St Dominus and saint Ignacius, as well as the prayer pew Pope Jean Paul II knelt on when he venerated St Dominus's tomb. We finished our tour in the temple of Jupiter which now has a statue by Croatian's famous sculpture who spent much of his career in the U.S.
We had a good lunch in the medieval section of town where I had lots of veggies grilled before we caught the ferry over to Brac. While walking to the ferry, we saw posters for Game of Thrones written in Croatian. Parts of the show are filmed here - a fact I learned from our magazines from work - and a number of coworkers have the posters up around the office. I think everyone thought I was crazy taking pictures of the posters. As we pulled out of port, we passed the ship Marco Polo. He has connections with this part of the world but we won't be learning about those until later in the week.
Once on Brac we drove to our hotel, from which we'll hike out in the morning. Brac is the third largest Dalmatian island and much of the marble used to build Washington DC. came from its quarries.
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